The Town of Crook in the County Palatine of Durham
History
Crook was probably little more than a hamlet before the 19th Century, with a
few houses and a water-mill (sited about 100yds from St Catherine's Church
and utilising the waters of the Crook Beck). The area round about would have
been
mainly agricultural (as it is today) but it also contained a number of
small coal-mines.
Geologically, Crook is at the western edge of the Durham coalfield. Over
millions of years the rocks containing the coal deposits have tilted such
that the useful coal layers are virtually at the surface around Crook and
gradually get deeper and deeper as you go east to the sea-coast; to the west
of Crook, the coal layers have been completely eroded by millions of years of
Ice Ages and other weather.
Because of the relative ease of obtaining the coal around Crook, it was
probably mined in a small way for hundreds of years but the difficulty of
transporting it by pack-horses or carts over generally dreadful roads,
severely limited the value of these 'land-sale' collieries. Until 1793,
probably the only road out of Crook was to the east towards Willington and
thence to Durham; in that year an Act of Parliament set up the Lobley Hill to
Wearhead Turnpike Road. This was mainly designed to cater for the transport
of lead mined at the top of Weardale to the river and sea at Gateshead;
however it also included a spur road from Wolsingham to Durham - this
involved the purchase of land and construction of a road to the east of Crook
to cross the old West Auckland to Corbridge Road (now the A68) at Harperley.
Doubtless the establishment of a properly maintained road through Crook
slightly improved the prospects of the local pits - possibly by opening up
the market for coal in the lead smelters at the top of Weardale. However what
really altered things was the coming of the Railways.
Coal and the Railways
The original Stockton and Darlington Railway finished at Phoenix Row/Witton
Park only a couple of miles south of Crook, but the race was soon on to take
rails to practically every colliery in Co Durham. The first railway to reach
Crook was an extension of the Clarence Railway across from Byers Green.
However this followed the contours of the hill above Crook and was an awkward
link involving inclines down to cross the Wear at Hunwick; it was soon
effectively superceded by the much more convenient link following the Crook
Beck valley up from Witton Park. With the establishment of the rail links,
the local colleries became major enterprises and the population of Crook
mushroomed to provide the labour force. The local coal was suitable for
making into coke (required for the steel works at Consett and Middlesbrough
as well as other industrial processes) and so in addition to the collieries,
a large industrial complex developed at Bankfoot for the production of coke
and other coal by-products. Rail inclines brought coal down to Crook from
other collieries in adjacent valleys.
With the development of coal mining, the local population increased
dramatically: according to the national Census Returns, the population of
Crook was 176 in 1811, 538 in 1841, 5,800 in 1861 and 11,098 in 1881. By the
middle of the nineteenth century the mining industry was well-established and
still growing. At its peak, there were twenty-six pits congregated in and
around the town, with all the attendant industry.
Crook became a typical small industrial town; prosperous and (by modern
standards) smokey and polluted. By 1900 it had established Churches/Chapels
of most Christian denominations, a local Co-operative Society (1865), a
British School(1866), plus Police Station, Freemasons Lodge, etc. Coal and
coal-related work provided nearly all the jobs in the area. In the 1930s,
those jobs were decimated because no-one was buying coal. By 1936, 34% of
Crook workers were without jobs, 71% of them had had no work for five or more
years. Crook was saved by the Second World War; then, and during the postwar
reconstruction, every ton of coal was at a premium. With local support and
sponsorship, Crook Town became one of the group of Co Durham football teams
that dominated the FA Amateur League and Cup in the 1950's.
Modern Crook
Prosperity started to decline in the 1950's as, after a 100 years of
intensive mining, all the accessible coal reserves had been removed, and the
collieries shut one by one. Deprived of its main trade, the railway fell to
Dr Beeching's cuts in the early 1960's. In the latter 1960's, the one
substantial pit-heap and the site of the Bankfoot works were landscaped.
Since then part of the old railway line was made into a road, and other parts
of Crook were 'tidied'. For better or worse, very little of its industrial
past is now left.
The recent history of Crook is typical of the towns in South-West Durham.
The geography of this area is a mixture of dense urban and sparsely populated
rural. The urban areas were built on coal and heavy industry. However,
since the 1950s, these have been replaced by small factories and service
industries. In the wake of this industrial transition, pockets of high
unemployment and associated areas of deprivation have developed. People are
finding it increasingly necessary to travel outside the area, to Tyneside,
Teesside and beyond, for work. Whilst road access is good, public transport
provision is poor, and the increasing travel-to-work distances leads to
further fragmentation of societal and community infrastructures. In the
rural areas, agriculture, quarrying and mineral extraction continue to be the
dominant industries, although tourism is rapidly developing as an important
contributor to the economy of the area. South-west Durham includes an Area
of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB).
Since 1960, the town has undergone a gradual and significant change from
long-established deep mining and coke works, to short-lived general light
industry and dormitory town. This transition has caused a serious
disintegration of social identity. Unemployment stands at about 20%. The
town has all basic services and amenities, is a local centre for shopping,
and has a bi-weekly market.
Initially as the underground mining of coal came to an end, Crook, with the
North East as a whole, was saved for a few brief years by an industrial
miracle: the era of Regional Policy. The roads in the area were transformed.
The publicly owned English Industrial Estates Corporation provided new
factories in the region's new towns and around its old ones. National and
multi-national firms flocked to the area.
In 1980, the government downgraded Crook from its previous "special
development area" status. Already, many of Crook's factories had closed.
Closure in itself is not of course proof of collapse. What is disturbing is
that only Ramar Dresses (established in Crook in 1945), which had become the
town's major industrial employer, managed to survive any length of time. It
too eventually succumbed to outside market forces: in 1990/1 it incurred
major redundancies in its workforce, and by the end of 1991 the receivers had
been called in. Most attempts to generate new small industry in the area
fail to produce sustained results.
The present population of the town is approximately 15,000.
Unemployment now stands at about 20%. Whilst factory space continues to be
under-used, a steady growth in new housing continues. As the spoil heaps
were levelled and other vestiges of deep mining were cleared away, new
housing estates were developed through the '70s and '80s on the edges of the
town. Some of the old housing stock was demolished. These and other factors
indicate a small but definite movement towards the town becoming primarily
residential. The town provides easy access and is well within manageable
commuting distance to Teesside, Tyneside, Darlington, Durham, Spennymoor,
Sunderland and Washington.
The town was originally created by pit-owners who came from outside
the area. As a primarily one-industry town, the local economy was directly
and radically affected by national economic circumstance. With the demise of
the coal industry, the related industry closed down, the railway closed and
the Co-operative Store closed. (The Co-operative Society in the North East,
with each local branch having its all encompassing departments, and the
"divi", was as much part of the fabric of the local community as the pits.)
In an article in "New Society" in 1963 S.Aris made the observation,
"strangled by the inevitable decline of the coal mines, Crook is slowly dying
on its feet". Since the closure of the deep mines, open cast mining has
developed. This has had enormous environmental impact on the surrounding
countryside but has made only a minor dent in the unemployment figures for
the area. The open cast mining industry is privately owned and regulated
from outside the locality, employing semi-skilled workers, most of whom also
come from outside the locality. The factories that opened after the closure
of the mines were owned and regulated from outside the locality. The type
and price of much of the new housing attracts people from outside the town,
the prices being remarkably high for the locality, remarkably low for those
from neighbouring conurbations and cities (though since 1991 the gap has
narrowed considerably). Two major new private housing estates (one of them
Barrett housing begun in the mid-1970s, and the other executive-style housing
begun in 1987) have had little effect on the commerce and welfare of the
town. This is largely because the said estates are of a generally dormitory
character: the occupants work, shop and pursue leisure activities elsewhere;
and also, because generally the estates are not acknowledged by local people:
they are situated out of sight and away from the centre of the town and
populated for the most part by outsiders.
Local people have a generally held and usually valid conviction that
major decisions concerning their quality of life are made by others outside
the locality. There continues to be a strong sense of being done-to: a
helplessness in the face of powerful, impersonal, outside influence and
control. As long as Crook was based on coal it was shaped directly by the
vagaries of national economy and national energy requirements. Furthermore,
there continues to be a popular feeling in the North East of being too far
away from the centre: that national government is too far away to appreciate
or understand the worth and needs of the area, which means the North East is
persistently forgotten or undervalued. A new civic centre opened in 1989,
housing almost all the local district council offices in one town and under
one roof for the first time. With remarkable insensitivity, it was built on
the site of the Co-op store, last bastion of the old Crook, thus upsetting
local people. The choice of Crook instead of the much larger, though less
central, Bishop Auckland annoyed even more people. Relations between Council
and local people have been flawed on both sides for many years.
Despite the fact no pits have worked since 1960, many of the people
who have lived in the town all their lives still regard it as a mining town.
Despite the enormous changes nationally in shopping habits, alongside the two
supermarkets the main street still retains its straggle of 1950s/1960s small
independent shops (albeit on a steadily reducing scale). This holding on to
the past is generated by a dignity and pride in how things used to be (for
example, the fact that Crook used to have one of the best amateur football
clubs in the country, and the fact that Crook used to produce some of the
finest coke in Europe) as much as blind habit and parochialism. The innate
conservatism that pervades much of S.W.Durham finds skewed reflection in the
local district council's enthusiasm for re-inventing a rose-tinted past.
Lifting tarmac and replacing it with new cobble setts is an obvious example
of a tourism- and economy-driven distortion of local history.
In all of this, Crook is by no means unique. Nor is Crook alone in
the disintegration of its identity, and the dispiritedness which follows from
it.
There is very little in the way of provision for the arts or programmes for
building community in the town. A pilot scheme was developed in St
Catherine's church in 1991 - the use of its Side Aisle for community
and arts-based activities and events - has highlighted the interest and
enthusiasm of local people to pursue such interests and concerns.
St. Catherine's Church
Thanks to Mr Anthony Young & Rev'd Andrew Featherstone